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《舌尖上的非遗》(The ULTIMATE Chinese Food Tour)是CGTN新媒体文化频道为庆祝中华人民共和国成立70周年特别策划的九集系列片。主持人Matthew Arrington Watson深入非遗美食的发源地八公山豆腐,向非遗传承人学习美食制作技艺,品尝中华美食,做一个快乐的“吃播”。
如果给你一块滑嫩的豆腐和一些饺子馅,请设法用豆腐作饺子皮包饺子,你会用什么办法呢?也许你会在心里嘀咕,豆腐做饺子皮多容易碎啊,这怎么可能呢?要不是在豆腐的诞生地亲眼见到水晶白玉饺,也许大家想不到这个“不可能完成的任务”可以这样轻而易举地完成吧。
《舌尖上的非遗》第八站,我们来到安徽寿县,了解八公山豆腐神奇的诞生经历和传统制作工艺,并见识一下闻名遐迩的淮南豆腐宴。
In the birthplace of tofu, the dish can be seen everywhere — from food stalls to dining table.
Hu Xuebing, the provincial-level inheritor of the Bagong Mountain Tofu craft, churns out the area’s famous food at his home in east China’s Anhui Province.
Bagong Mountain Tofu craft inheritor Hu Xuebing and CGTN reporter Matthew Watson pour soy milk into a large pot for boiling to make Tofu in Hu’s home in east China’s Anhui Province. /CGTN Photo
相传西汉时期,淮南王刘安为求长生不老,在八公山下用泉水、黄豆和石膏炼制仙丹。结果仙丹未得,却无意中发明了豆腐。如今当地的人们仍然沿用古法制作豆腐,八公山豆腐制作技艺省级传承人胡学兵在他家里为我们展示了豆腐制作的传统工艺。
胡老师把用山泉水浸泡过的黄豆撒在石磨里,有节奏地推动磨盘碾压,新鲜的豆浆缓缓流出。看着胡老师推石磨似乎很轻松,Matthew也尝试了一下。虽然他个高力大,但石墨却总是推到一半就卡住,非常费劲。胡老师见状手把手地教Matthew,和他一起推。Matthew立刻领悟到不能用蛮劲八公山豆腐,“你得知道在哪里用劲,在哪里不用劲。”
新鲜的生豆浆滤净豆渣,倒入大铁锅煮熟,就到了“点石成金”的时刻。只见胡老师把一定量的石膏用水冲开,再倒入熟豆浆里,快速搅拌均匀,不一会儿豆浆便逐渐凝固,原来这就是传说中的“点豆腐”。10分钟后豆浆完全凝结成豆腐脑,把豆腐脑放进棉布筐里面用大石块压出水分,豆腐便做成了!
正如当地谚语所说,“莫道豆腐平常菜,大厨烹成席上珍”。豆腐的制作工艺传承了两千多年未有改变,但技艺高超的淮南大厨们却把豆腐做出了花儿来!
While using modern machinery is faster, Hu still uses traditional methods to produce the same quality result. As I would soon learn, it’s labor-intensive work.
Moving the millstone by hand requires physical endurance and patience as the soybeans are ground into soy milk, which slowly fills a large pot below.
Hu filtered out the soybean particles with a cloth before boiling the liquid, which quickly filled the room with steam. Next, plaster was mixed with water and added to the cooling soy milk, causing it to congeal.
We scooped it out layer by layer, wrapped it and left it under weights to press it into a block.
Hu wastes nothing during the process: the straw from the plant is used to heat the fire for boiling and the filtered remnants are sold to local pig farmers.
Pressed tofu is ready for sale. /CGTN Photo
在当地具有百年历史的老字号聚红盛餐厅,Matthew享受了一次高大上的淮南豆腐宴。看着一道道造型精美、颜色丰富的菜品,很难想象它们都是用白嫩易碎的豆腐制作而成的。久闻大名的水晶白玉饺就在其中,Matthew用勺子舀起一只饺子,完美无瑕的豆腐饺子皮微微抖动,送入口中,饺子清淡爽口、滑嫩弹牙,口感令人难忘。
吃的时候小心翼翼,做的时候又该当如何呢?原来保持豆腐饺子皮完好无损的秘诀竟在巧妙地使用工具。将豆腐切成薄片,平摊在布中,中间放入饺子馅,再将布折叠,这样豆腐薄片自然而然地包住馅料,而且还不会碎。大厨真是机智过人!
清晨,八公山街头的烟火气十足。街头巷尾随处可见卖豆腐的早餐店,路过的人们总会喝上一碗豆腐脑,美味、健康又方便。
坐得稳席上佳宴,也栖得下寻常巷陌,这就是八公山豆腐长盛不衰的秘密吧。
Bagong Mountain Tofu has a reputation that stretches much farther than the city limits.
While I was there, a couple from Nanjing arrived after driving three hours just to buy Hu’s prized tofu.
Chefs at a local restaurant present a table full of Bagong Mountain Tofu in east China’s Anhui Province. /CGTN Photo
Tofu is on the menu at food stalls around the county for morning breakfast and becomes a work of art in the county’s restaurants.
Local chefs can create more than 400 tofu dishes using over 30 skills. Despite working with such a soft substance, tofu is folded into dumplings, sliced into intricate designs, and molded into countless shapes.
From raw soybeans to fine cuisine, Shouxian County has mastered the art of tofu.
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